A sharp command stops a bark instantly if the dog respects your authority, but shouting is a poor substitute for a real solution.
If you find yourself yelling every day, you aren’t training – you’re just adding to the noise.
Instead of hoping for the dog that “never opens its mouth”, the focus has to shift to why they start and how you can actually end it.
Modern gadgets can speed up the process, and I’ve selected a few that actually deliver, but they only work if your daily handling is solid.
These nine lessons cover the practical steps I’ve seen work over the years to break the bad habits and get the barking under control when it matters.
Trigger | Solution | Best |
|---|---|---|
Boredom | Mental & Physical Work | Search Games / Hiking |
Attention Seeking | Total Blackout (Ignore) | Consistency |
Territorial Alert | Identify Trigger / Command | "Quiet" Command |
1. Pinpoint the Barking Triggers
Before you can stop the noise, you need to know exactly what starts it. Dogs don’t bark for no reason; they react to triggers like boredom, passing traffic, or, most commonly with guardian breeds, a perceived threat to their territory.
Take the Šarplaninac, for example. Instinct dictates every move, and protection is the only priority.
When a pack of jackals approached the kennel late at night, the response was immediate. The barking woke the entire neighborhood.
At that point, choices are limited: listen to the noise all night, or act. We let the dogs out! Once the intruders were driven off, the night went silent.
The key is knowing when the dog is alerting you to a real problem and when it’s just making noise.
If the trigger is real, punishment won’t work.
2. When to Use a Bark Collar?
Breaking bad habits always requires a handler’s presence. No gadget could replace a human voice or direct intervention.
A bark collar is not a “set and forget” device to be used while you are away; it is a training aid that works best when you are there to lead.
In our kennel, work comes first, but for an owner struggling with a persistent nuisance, this tool helps bridge the gap between a correction and a learned command.
Here is what you need to know:
- Never use this on a pup under 6 months.
- Use it for bad habits. If the barking stems from fear or pain, stop immediately! Punishing a terrified dog destroys its temperament.
- You must be present. When the correction triggers, give the “Quiet” command and reward the silence.
- Do not leave the device on all day. Use it only during active training or high-trigger periods.
- A loose collar is useless (two-finger rule).
3. Positive Reinforcement
I have seen the most success with positive reinforcement when working with a Sarplaninac puppy or a young dog. In these early stages of life, you can actually shape their behavior.
Once they mature and develop bad habits, those patterns are significantly harder to break.
Whether this method works better or worse for other breeds is something I cannot comment on, but for a true Sarplaninac, it is most effective while they are young.
If you fail to establish the right behavior early on, you are facing a much tougher struggle later.
4. Walking is Not Enough
A simple walk is nothing. Most barking comes down to boredom, but we shouldn’t generalize because it depends on many factors, such as the breed, temperament, and the dog’s unique personality.
I’ve seen many owners complain about noise when the real problem is just too much energy and nothing to do. You have to provide real work.
Focus on activities that drain them completely:
- Long walks or hiking – real distance on different terrain is what makes the difference.
- Off-leash sprints – letting him reach full speed in a safe, open area.
- Search games – making him find hidden objects or track a scent to tire his brain.
When he is truly tired from actual work, he is much less likely to care about who is passing by the gate.
Do it right and he will usually be too busy sleeping to make a sound. A snoring dog is always better than a barking one.
To get the most out of your training and long walks, the right equipment is key. I’ve written a guide on how to choose the right dog leash depending on your dog’s size and energy level.
5. Calm Environment
When I say “calm environment,” I mean a change of location. Freedom 24/7 is where most owners fail. I believe they don’t want to upset their pet because the situation might get worse, right?
That is why you must restrict movement using a dog crate, box, or fence – depending on the breed.
Monitor the behavior and set a time limit on how long this “punishment” lasts. After a few days, look for a new location if you notice no effect.
6. The “Quiet” Command
I don’t practice this with my own dogs, but the video below is clear: silence is impossible if you don’t control the bark. You first own the “Speak,” then the “Quiet.”
Reward peace, never noise. That means waiting for 3 to 5 seconds of total silence. A sharp hand signal eventually replaces the voice.
If it’s barking for attention, even a “dirty look” counts as a win for them, ignore it. If the noise continues, walk out and close the door.
7. Ignore the Barking
Any reaction to attention-seeking is a reward (even a shout). If you react, the dog wins!
In the mountains, some of my dogs go further away when I call them. I never chase. I turn my back and walk in the opposite direction.
Without an audience, the game is over and they are back at my heels in seconds.
The same rule applies to barking. Attention-seeking noise requires a total blackout. No eye contact, no talking, no touch.
8. Distraction Techniques
Treat this as an experiment. You aren’t following a rule; you’re hunting for a reaction. When the dog locks on, use impact.
A heavy chain on a metal bowl to cut the tension. Step in and block the view. Toss your keys at the feet to force a reflex turn. If the dog is red-lining, use a sharp burst of water to snap him out of it.
Watch the eyes. If the stare breaks for even a millisecond, you win.
Note: These methods were developed through decades of working with the Šarplaninac (a powerful, strong-willed breed). Techniques that are effective for livestock guardian dogs may be too intense for more sensitive breeds. Always adjust the intensity to match your dog’s unique temperament. If you are unsure, consult a professional trainer before implementing physical distraction techniques.
9. Be Consistent
None of these methods will work if you don’t put in the work.
If you’re at the park, use it for a mini-training session (change of terrain is key). Go step by step and never reward a bad habit.
Be serious, even a little angry. Your facial expression must let the dog know you don’t like what he’s doing.
Be consistent, don’t give up, and the results will follow!
Conclusion
I have put the right information and the training tools in your hands. Now, it is up to you to use them. But let’s be real: if the barking continues, you have reached your limit. At that point, seek a professional.
You need a handler with real years on the field – someone who actually understands the dog with a tough character.
A professional will pinpoint exactly where your handling fails and correct the work before those bad habits become permanent.
Thank you for your time and attention.
